Haridwar, Another Holy City

There's apparently no end to the holy cities in India. Each one holds its own special meaning for the Hindu people. Haridwar, located where the River Ganges flows from the mountains into the plains is a special spot for the Hindus. Many come here for the evening puja (prayer ceremony) and spend the entire day at the river waiting for the sun to set.

The city itself (small compared to our cities) is in deplorable shape. There's garbage everywhere (what else is new in India, I've come to understand), countless flies hovering over the open food at the stalls, over the cow dung in the road and on the people.



A water fountain/public faucet in the middle of town. Check out the piping feeding water to the faucet.
Of course there's cows, but you've got to love the way they own the roads, causing cars, trucks and other vehicles to screech to a halt when they refuse to get out of the way. No one would dare to hit them as they represent Krishna who was their caretaker in another life.

There's also a new smell to this city, one I can't quite identify. It's not garbage or open sewers as I've smelled in other cities, but something deeper. It was not one of my favorite places, that's for sure.

Interestingly enough, my perception changed (as it has many times here in India) after the nighttime puja ceremony. The lights from the temple along the River Ganges, the flaming torches lit and made to swing above the river by the priests and the lighted flower baskets floating down the river all seemed to make the awful presentation of Haridwar disappear. It took on more the aura of a fairyland. It's been interesting to me how my senses can defy my reasoning within a very short time.



The crowd gathers at the river's edge on concrete islands between the river and the canal built to provide a place for calmer water where the prayer ceremonies can take place.



As the ceremony begins, several men in blue uniforms "work the crowd" for offerings. They are adorned with necklaces and bracelets to attract attention. Their yelling riles up the crowd as you can see by the raised arms. They carry pads and pens which allow people who give alms to get a receipt for their donation. I wonder if they can use it as a tax deduction??



People can buy these leaf boats along the streets of the town or on the concrete islands. When evening falls and the ceremony begins, a small wick in the center of the fresh rose, marigold, etc. flower petals is lit and the boat is set afloat in the river. It's delightful to see these small lights moving down at great speed along with the current.



Along the canal, men set up tables where further offerings can be made to the small shrines erected on site. The fires are lit only after the puja ceremony is over but Hindus will toss money on the tables throughout the evening.

Another interesting tidbit is that when the ceremony begins, everyone must be seated somewhere. Men sell sheets of plastic from candy companies (complete with logos) for people to sit on. The tabletop shrine owners will also allow people to sit on the table providing you pay at least Rs20/- for "rent" of the space.



The priests stand in front of the temple waving torches of fire above the river. It's a very awe-inspiring sight to see when night falls. The nightly ceremony depends upon the time of sunset each night.

As you can see, the lights upon the river make for a startling attraction. I was glad to have the opportunity to see Haridwar at night. Although I would not return, I was pleasantly surprised by it's hidden beauty.